Establishing oneself as an eminent taco spot in Mexico City is like opening a pub in Dublin, a barbecue joint in Austin, or a restaurante para paella in Valencia—in other words, foolish, if not futile. This burden rests on the restaurateur—luckily for us patrons, the responsibility to uphold a traditional standard simply means that if it exists, it’s probably very, very good. Such is the case with Taqueria Orinoco, a lively, trendy, no-frills gem revered in Mexico City and beyond. It’s open until five in the morning on weekends and three A.M. during the week; don’t be surprised if you end up craving—and succumbing to—their tacos al pastor for lunch and late-evening both. You wouldn’t be the first. —Jack Sullivan

Jack Sullivan is an Associate Editor at AIR MAIL