May 6, 2023
The Best
of
The
News
from
Abroad
No. 199
Weekend
Edition
Saturdays

at 6:00 AM
In This Week’s Issue
Career Suicide

From Idaho, Howard Blum probes deep into the mind of alleged student murderer Bryan Kohberger, a smart criminal-justice scholar caught by the very methods he studied …

Religious Sexts

From Germany, Laura Moser unravels the sordid web of pornographic messages, sexual harassment, and academic fraud surrounding one of the country’s most powerful rabbis …

The People’s Paparazzo

From the U.K., Henri Cartier-Bresson’s street photographs hearken back to the time England crowned its last king …

Working Girl

From the archives, Carl Sferrazza Anthony unearths the little-known story of Jackie O’s early days working as a newspaper columnist in Washington …

Marlène Did A Trick

From France, Alexandra Marshall reports on the scandals that have encircled powerhouse politician Marlène Schiappa—from photos in Playboy to missing charitable funds …

A Nation on the Edge

From Turkey, an Istanbul-born colleague anticipates the country’s momentous elections, and what they might mean for her nation’s future …

Table for Two, Please!

AIR MAIL’s essential podcast finds Bruce Bozzi talking with Tom Ford, as the celebrated designer steps down from the fashion brand he built …

BUT, WAIT, THERE’S MORE!

The 1 percent are leaving their jewels at home … Nicholas Foulkes eyes the Met Gala watches … What’s wrong with Jeremy Fragrance? … Tom Hanks turns novelist …. Welly bad news: the Land Rover is no more … Lucas Matthiessen’s memoir is filled with alcoholic WASPs and poisoned marriages …. a punk-rock museum opens on the Las Vegas Strip … D.J. Fred Again is posher than thou … new cookbooks for spring … Attend the coronation of this week’s Attention Whore! …

Paul Cox’s Sketchbook
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Anticipating the royal procession down the Mall as it passes under Admiralty Arch, soon to become the Waldorf Astoria London. The Gold State Coach, built in 1762, has leather straps for suspension, so the newly crowned King and Queen are taking it only for the return ride to Buckingham Palace.
The coach passes Horse Guards up Whitehall. The clock on the tower has a black mark by the number two, which is said to commemorate the time in 1649 that the first King Charles was executed, on the opposite side of the street.
The west entrance to Westminster Abbey. The north tower usually flies the flag of St. Peter, but the royal standard is flying today when the King is present.
A cozy group of devoted 85-year-old ladies camp out for a prime location on the Mall for five nights in their little tents. After braving the cold and rain—and having to pee behind bushes—they enjoy a welcome cup of tea to warm up.
But First …
Issue No. 199

The View from Here With Turkey heading to elections and President Erdoğan projected to lose, is this the end of the turmoil, or the start of more chaos?

By Emine Gözde Sevim
Read On
Barry Blitt’s Sketchbook
In Cold Blood

The Eyes of a Killer: Part IV The case against Bryan Kohberger depended on a series of improbable breakthroughs—and an unlikely cast of characters

By Howard Blum
PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY CHOP CHOPPISH SHOP
Read On
The Naked Truth

In Bad Faith For two decades, Walter Homolka was Germany’s most prominent and powerful rabbi. Then a sexting scandal opened questions about his profitable network of institutions, and his curious conversion to Judaism

By Laura Moser
Read On
Air Supply

Now and Then

In honor of the Beatles’ new single, AIR SUPPLY pays tribute to the Fab Four with a collection of British luxuries, Swinging 60s souvenirs, and tailor-made staples for today’s sartorialist
Shop
Photo: Keystone-France/Gamma/Getty Images (John Lennon and Julian Lennon)
Guest Edit

My Favorite Things Anna Scott Carter created Electragram to offer the old-school charm of a handwritten letter at the speed of an e-mail. Here, she shares her favorite finds—all of which, like her customized cards, are just a click away

By Anna Scott Carter
Shop
Photo: Godfrey Daniel
T.G.I.S.

The Attention-Whore Index In a battle for the ages, Meghan Markle, George Santos, and Choupette go head-to-head for your attention. Plus: strange news from around the world

Read On
Listen

Lunch with Tom Ford Prior to stepping down as creative director of the fashion brand he built, the designer shares his infinite wisdom and tips for looking good on this week’s Table for Two

Read On
The Watchman

Time Out of Mind From the Met Gala in New York to the factories in Switzerland, AIR MAIL’s horological expert believes that the sum of all human achievement can be found in watches

By Nicholas Foulkes
Read On
Frisky Business

Catch a Falling Star Marlène Schiappa was a powerhouse in the Macron establishment. But that was before she posed for Playboy and played fast and loose with government funds

By Alexandra Marshall
Read On
Small Talk
State of Undress

Stealth Wealth “Understated luxury” is more than a fashion trend. After a string of violent robberies, the 1-percenters are leaving their status symbols at home

By Mark Ellwood
Read On
Inside Story

Jackie Kennedy, on Candid Camera Before marrying J.F.K., Jackie transformed a staid newspaper column into “the best escapist literature” in Washington

By Carl Sferrazza Anthony
Photo Illustration by Chop Choppish Shop
Read On
Small Talk
“They’ll have it figured out by then.”
“They’ll have it figured out by then.”
Brits And Their Cars

Corporate Collision Land Rover, the 75-year-old British car company favored by the Queen—and, further down the food chain, one of AIR MAIL’s co-editors—is getting a rebrand. Now it sounds like a K-pop boy band

By Rachel Johnson
Read On
Best
READ Look for Me There The title of Luke Russert’s memoir takes its name from something the author’s father, the celebrated news anchor Tim Russert,… Serve Christofle x Elliott Barnes Since its founding, in 1830, the French orfevrerie maison Christofle has married its traditional silversmithing… Read A Taste of London Dive into London’s diverse food scene with this brand-new book from artist and author John Donohue. Somewhere between… Ask Co-Star Somehow, Mercury is back in retrograde. For those who care (and maybe those who are sick of hearing the phrase blindly)… Wear Erdem No one does floral dresses with panache and day-to-night versatility quite like designer Erdem Moralıoğlu. And so, just in time… Strut Alaïa With all due respect to Azzedine, Alaïa’s current bout of greatness is thanks to the good work of the house’s newish creative director… READ Look for Me There The title of Luke Russert’s memoir takes its name from something the author’s father, the celebrated news anchor Tim Russert,… Serve Christofle x Elliott Barnes Since its founding, in 1830, the French orfevrerie maison Christofle has married its traditional silversmithing… Read A Taste of London Dive into London’s diverse food scene with this brand-new book from artist and author John Donohue. Somewhere between… Ask Co-Star Somehow, Mercury is back in retrograde. For those who care (and maybe those who are sick of hearing the phrase blindly)… Wear Erdem No one does floral dresses with panache and day-to-night versatility quite like designer Erdem Moralıoğlu. And so, just in time… Strut Alaïa With all due respect to Azzedine, Alaïa’s current bout of greatness is thanks to the good work of the house’s newish creative director…
Past is Prologue

A Tendency to Court Disaster Peter Matthiessen aspired to write the Great American Novel. His son Lucas’s posthumous memoir reads like Greek tragedy

By Ben Ryder Howe
Read On
Close-up

India Ria Amarteifio The star of Shonda Rhimes’s latest, a prequel to her hit Bridgerton series, reveals how she channels Queen Charlotte

By Carolina de Armas
Read On
Spring Cooking

Stir Crazy Bust out the apron, because these addictive new cookbooks make even the dirty work a pleasure

By Christine Muhlke
Read On
Nose for Trouble

We Need to Talk About Jeremy … He has millions of followers and a soon-to-be released autobiography, but has the world’s most popular perfume influencer lost his mind?

By Carl Wilkinson
Read On
Ghosts of Monarchs Past

The Last Time England Crowned a King Henri Cartier-Bresson’s London-street photographs capture the spirit of another royal coronation—of George VI, in 1937

7
A crowd in London’s Trafalgar Square on May 12, 1937, the day of George VI’s coronation, photographed by Henri Cartier-Bresson.
Cartier-Bresson’s coronation photos were featured in the May 14 issue of the French newspaper Ce Soir.
A scene from coronation day.
A scene from coronation day.
Scenes from coronation day.
A scene from coronation day.
Watching the King go by in Trafalgar Square.
Read On

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Don’t Miss
New York

Under cover: the New-York Historical Society Museum revisits the work of J. C. Leyendecker, exploring the homoerotic undertones in his visions of masculine beauty …

San Francisco

Surreal encounters: the Mexican Surrealist painter Remedios Varo gets her second solo gallery exhibition at Wendi Norris since her death, in 1963 …

Vienna

A French rendezvous: the Heidi Horten Collection exhibits its namesake’s works by Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, and Yves Klein …

Shanghai

Gucci girls: West Bund displays archival Gucci pieces in an ode to the fashion house’s cultural icons, including Princess Grace of Monaco, Jackie Kennedy, and Princess Diana …

Online

Sibylline spirit: Prague’s Tiburtina Ensemble brings Hildegard von Bingen to Morningside Heights with a performance that streams online starting next Sunday …

Music

Lord of the Spins Fred Again, the world’s most popular D.J., is hip, hot, and very posh

By Dylan Jones
Read On
Small Talk
“No, the cat’s not away. He’s just very woke.”
“No, the cat’s not away. He’s just very woke.”
Listen

How Cops Caught the Idaho-Murders Suspect In this week’s episode, Howard Blum reveals the improbable twists that helped officials nab their man

Read On
Highlight

The Filth and the Respectability

“First you shock them, then they put you in a museum.”
—Mick Jagger, paraphrasing Jean Cocteau READ ON

The recently opened Punk Rock Museum was founded by NOFX singer “Fat” Mike Burkett and former Vans Warped Tour promoter Lisa Brownlee. Read On
Small Talk
“I mean, what is it with sneakers!??”
“I mean, what is it with sneakers!??”
Books
Stuart Heritage On

The Making of Another Major Motion Picture Masterpiece

by Tom Hanks
Read On
James Kirchick On

The Last Honest Man: The CIA, the FBI, the Mafia, and the Kennedys―and One Senator’s Fight to Save Democracy

by James Risen
Read On
Highlight
A new exhibition at London’s National Gallery explores St. Francis’s impact on art since the 13th century. El Greco’s Saint Francis Receiving the Stigmata (1590–95) is among the 40 paintings on display.

The Original Renaissance Man

Among a certain circle of art historians, including the BBC broadcaster Andrew Graham-Dixon, is a belief that the Renaissance was ignited by a single spark in the form of one man: St. Francis of Assisi. Born into wealth in Umbria around 1181, Francis abandoned a lavish lifestyle for one of poverty and preaching after experiencing a vision: in his 20s, in a chapel outside of Assisi, while he looked at a painting of the crucifixion, Christ came alive and said, “Repair my church.” Francis subsequently traveled throughout Italy and the Holy Land, establishing the Franciscan Order on the pillars of penury, peace, and environmentalism. READ ON

A new exhibition at London’s National Gallery explores St. Francis’s impact on art since the 13th century. El Greco’s Saint Francis Receiving the Stigmata (1590–95) is among the 40 paintings on display. Read On
The Perfect Ending

Claire Ptak

The cookbook author and maverick behind Violet Cakes answers 41 of life’s most pressing questions
Read On
Joe McKendry’s Sketchbook
Is Edited By

Graydon Carter and Alessandra Stanley

Creative Director

Angela Panichi

Deputy Editors

Ashley Baker Ash Carter Chris Garrett Nathan King Julia Vitale

Chief Technology Officer

John Tornow

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Books Editor

Jim Kelly

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Laura Jacobs

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Jensen Davis

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Ann Schneider

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H. Scott Jolley

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London Editor

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Communications Director

Harrison Vail

Columnists

Cazzie David Lisa Henricksson Walter Isaacson
Pico Iyer Rachel Johnson John Lahr
Jonathan Margolis Linda Wells James Wolcott

Writers at Large

Lili Anolik Johanna Berkman Joseph Bullmore Vassi Chamberlain William D. Cohan Rich Cohen Michael Hainey Stuart Heritage George Kalogerakis Sam Kashner James Kirchick Alexander Lobrano Alexandra Marshall

Contributing Artists

Monica Ahanonu Barry Blitt André Carrilho Paul Davis David Downton Andrea Ferolla Josh Gosfield Cathy Graham Eric Hanson Angelica Hicks Pip Johnson Hilary Knight Danielle Kosann Michael Lindsay-Hogg Ross MacDonald Joe McKendry James McMullan Donald Robertson Charles Dare Scheips Grant Shaffer Ed Sorel Ralph Steadman

Contributing Photographers

Jonathan Becker Justin Bishop Alex Board James Emmerman Marcos Fecchino Daniel Paik Art Streiber Sharon Suh Justin Weiner

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Rachel LeSage

Cartoon Editor

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Music Supervisor

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Photo Editor

Emine Gözde Sevim

Designer

Zoé Gillette

Technology

Brooks Oakley Justin Rubaloff Sade Singleton

Intern

Gasper Tringale-White

OUR CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AND CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER ARE

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Advertising Director

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Financial & Business Operations

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Chief Merchant

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Shop Editor

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Isaac Metlitsky

E-Commerce Associates

Coco Paul-Henriot Roxy Solis

In Memoriam

Peter Bogdanovich Duncan Hannah Douglas McGrath Richard David Story André Leon Talley

Issue No. 199
May 6, 2023
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Issue No. 199
May 6, 2023
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