Some people avoid Assunta Madre because of the myriad scandals which it has been embroiled in since 2013. Gianni Micalusi, the owner of this delectable fish institution on Via Giulia, was sentenced to eight years in prison for money laundering. His sons, Francesco and Lorenzo, were sentenced to two-and-a-half years each. Despite the turmoil, those in the know still insist on eating there, because it’s just that good. The crudi are excellent; we also recommend the Catalan lobster and of course, pasta with all kinds of shellfish. —Elena Clavarino

Elena Clavarino is the Senior Editor for AIR MAIL